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Greenland

The Greenland assignment (currently the cover story for the Janaury 2004
issue of SMITHSONIAN Magazine) was a fascinating article to cover. Traveling for
10 days across the frozen sea ice with Polar Inuit hunters on their dog sledges,
it's easy to see how fragile life in the polar regions can be. None of us
could communciate directly with each other so there was no conversation. Yet, I
never felt out of place amongst them. They were kind, thoughtful, and as much as
nature allows, in complete control of their environment.

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Polar Inuit hunters travel by dog teams from Qaanaaq, in N.W Greenland, the
world's northernmost settlement out across the frozen Baffin Bay to hunt.

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The Inuit use a fan pattern system of dogs teams rather than single file, allowing
the dogs to shift one direction to another quickly across the frozen sea ice.

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No matter where you go on the planet, kids play soccer. I found it quite humorous
when a ball was kicked out of bounds, it rolled all the way down to the frozen
bay, delaying the game for most of recess.

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In Qaanaaq, frozen cod, seals, walrus and halibut will nailed to posts
for food supplies through-out the winter.

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Traveling past icebergs was thrilling and also dangerous. Around a newly "flipped" berg,
seals come to breathe in the open waters surrounding the berg. Polar bears have
learned to hunt seals in such places. Our Inuit friends warned us not
to go to the icebergs without them.

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A skilled hunter, Frank Anqmalortoq peers through the blind of his shooting
platform as he closes in on a bearded seal on Baffin Bay near a recently turned iceberg.

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I was amazed at the skill of the hunters and the dog teams as they spotted,
hunted and dressed out two 1,000 pound bearded seals. From the moment of the
shot to dressing it out, stacking the meat for food provisions, and feeding the
dogs, the entire process took less than 30 minutes and we were again traveling.

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A distinguished and skilled man, Ussarquk Henson is the grandson of famed
Polar explorer Matthew Henson who is thought to have been one of the first to
reach the North Pole with Robert Peary.

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A hunter in the Village of Savissivik proudly displays the two polar bears he
successfully hunted over the winter. The skins hang outside to cure, and will be
sewn later into clothing. Greenland laws allow Inuit to continue to hunt as their
ancestors did, by dog teams. Any use of motorized vehicles is not allowed.

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A newly turned iceberg looms across the frozen desert of the North.


© Layne Kennedy 2007
All photographs appearing in this and related Layne Kennedy sites are the exclusive property of Layne Kennedy and are protected under United States and international copyright laws. The photographs may not be reproduced, copied, stored, or manipulated without the written consent of Layne Kennedy. No images are within public domain. All rights reserved.

Layne Kennedy
PO Box 19286
Minneapolis, MN 55419
email: lk@laynekennedy.com


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